As I am at 87% battery power, I've
decided to start using the bluetooth keyboard Tim has lent me rather than
trying to type on the iPad. This may mean I can add details more quickly, or it
may mean I'll have to break out the solar charger to boost the iPad.
Today we paddled about 18-20 kms, and
encounter numerous rapids. There are no good topographic maps of this river, so
it is impossible to know at times where we are. Every once and a while we hit a
very obvious feature - and usually it is not as far as I'd like to get. Today,
we made pretty good time.
There was at least 8 marked rapids
today, although there are so many more with the lower water. With high water,
much of what we experience as swifts and class ones would likely disappear. But,
an advantage of low water is that as we move into the shield portion of the
river we have ledges and rocks to line boats, to portage on, and, importantly,
to fish from. Today fishing wasn't great for me. I broke the tip of the other
road, bushwhacking through one portage. Oh well. The guys did ok, with Buck
catching several fall fish (like a white fish or golden eye), and a few
pickerel. He caught at least one decent one, but too early in the day. I landed
one small pickerel, a small pike, and lost a few small pickerel.
We saw lots of rapids like this one. |
Speaking of which, last night wasn't
a great sleep again. I'm sure I dozed off, but I woke up feeling tired and
unrested. After I blogged a bit last night, I felt quite tired and just tried
to fall asleep. Didn't quite work out that way. Shane, on the other hand, is
almost asleep before he's in his sleeping bag. In fact, I think one day he was
asleep before getting in his bag. Me, I just lay there. I decided to take a
little helper, although itdDidn't give me the sound sleep I had hoped for.
Maybe tonight.
Today I ran more rapids than I
thought I would. I'm riding shotgun with Tim, which boosts my confidence. I’m
also remembering how to paddle! The first day was kind of jumping feet first. I
expected flat water for the first 100 kms with the odd rapid – this is how I
told myself I would cope – and instead encountered many little rapids and
swifts. Far too many rocks found their way into Shane's and my path, ultimately
shaking my confidence. I'm still wary, as tomorrow we hit rapid after rapid. In
fact, in about 5-10 kms up the river, we hit so many rapids in a row that if
the shore is good enough, and the rapids big enough, I might just walk most of
it!
Sadly, I know the shoreline likely
won't work. This topography is much different from what I'm used to. The
underbrush on the sides of the river is often extremely thick. When walking
through it I've found myself signing songs loudly, just in case of an
unexpected bear or moose. Buck would laugh at this thought. He's quick to point
out that animals are completely unfamiliar with people up here, given the
remoteness, and would bugger off at the first sight or sound. [note: since our return, I’ve read at least
two accounts of bear attacks in remote locations, including one only a few
hundred kms to the east of where we were paddling.]
There has been plenty of sign of
animals: game trails alongside the river, scat (mostly moose and caribou), and
tracks. So far, all we've mostly seen birds – including both a juvenile and a
mature bald eagle, and an osprey with a fish in its talons – and a river otter.
Can't blame the animals for not wanting to stick around. This is a godforsaken
land, truly.
Today also presented the first real paddling
challenge. Tim and I ran a different line than Buck and Shane on a seemingly
easy and shallow rapid. When we eddied to view the upcoming rapids, we left
ourselves with only one really viable route out – it looked simple, just ride
the water past a big rock. Rather than have the boat follow the water past the big
rock, however, we got stuck - really stuck - on a little rock beyond the big
rock that neither of us saw. Tim immediately jumped into action, telling me how
to lean, what to do. Nothing worked. He later likened his approach to being a
pilot going through a checklist of things to do before taking off - one by one,
every attempt to free the boat failed. Buck and Shane were already down river –
catching fall fish, we'd learn shortly – while Tim and I both exited the boat,
and he proceeded to pass me all of the gear before the boat wrapped around the
rock.
I could see the boat flexing and the
indentation as the water put its enormous force behind it. Crazy thing was that
this wasn't even very big water. It was a wide part of the river, where it had
branched off, and wasn't very deep or fast. Nevertheless, the boat was pinned.
Eventually, as more and more gear left the boat to be perched on a nearby rock,
the boat popped out. Then we had to empty it completely, flip it to drain the
water, and repack. All we lost was a fuel bottle. Coincidentally, Shane and
Buck found a fuel bottle while fishing downstream.
Shane's Inukshuk will likely drown in the spring, as I suspect this will be a roaring river. |
The little hang up today is a good
reminder that we might be slowed down by unforeseen issues. Thankfully, we've
had few so far. We typically get out early (around 8:30) and camp when we find
a good site (as early as 6:30, as late at 7:45). We've only got about 85 kms
left of the river. On flat water, we could do that in two or three days. Here?
Who knows? It will be important to go slow, to take our time, and to be safe.
Thankfully, nobody has felt the push to run any big water – except Tim early
on, but he had no gear, a good thing, as he dumped. I think that experience was
a good one, as we realized then if we dumped a lot, we'd spent an awful amount
of time getting gear, not to mention being cold. I think everyone wants to be
safe, but they seem happy to accommodate my need to get through faster. We
could have camped a touch earlier today, but we pressed on. Not very far, but
we did press on.
Campsite number four . |
I'm hoping for a good sleep tonight.
I could use it. Either way, I'll take the little helper. It serves a dual
purpose – helping me sleep and reducing anxiety. Don't know how well it works,
but given all that happened today, and my lessened state of anxiety, perhaps
the little pill did wonders for me.
It will be good to get this river
done and over with. It is a long trek, with many nights sleeping dirty, stinky,
covered with sunscreen and deet, reeking of smoke, etc. That said, it has been
a pretty fun trek so far. Admittedly, I'd prefer it to end tomorrow, but we're
making progress. Hopefully tomorrow's entry indicates a successful day, without
any boats almost being wrapped around a rock, and 12-15 kms. Many other
bloggers had days of 6 or 7 km. I'd like to avoid those if I could, and to
steadily get closer to the 143-144 km mark: at that point, the river goes from
one of Northern Ontario's craziest whitewater routes to 60 kms of flat water
that empties into Hannah Bay. At that point, all I need to do is work with the
tides (when they become relevant), and hope that our shuttle service is on time
and able to pick us up. Apparently, poor weather delayed some poor chaps about
four days earlier this year. Must remember to encourage Buck to use the
satellite phone to remind the shuttle once we are close.
Shane left this tree alone, but chopped down another … because he could. |
....
Day Five:
Tonight it is not the buzzing of
mosquitoes outside the tent. Instead, it is the constant dropping of rain. It's
been raining for about three and a half or four hours now. It would be very
lovely if it stopped sometime before morning, allowing us to dry out.
Running a small rapid. |
Today the clouds followed us
everywhere. At times they looked ominous. At one point it did rain for a bit -
enough that we decided to make a fire at lunch. We stopped for lunch later today
as we got out of camp late. A late start means less kilometers, which means more
days on the river. Everyone was enthusiastic, however, about our chances of
making good distance. I think we ended up doing six kilometres.
Lots of fun portaging. |
Buck and Shane running a rapid - might have been the one Tim and I took water on …. or another one. Too many to keep track of! |
We have roughly 18-19 kms of intense
rapids ahead of us. At best, that it two or three days. If we are lucky, we can
make get 9-10 kms tomorrow, and the remainder the next day. That would put us
into the flatwater section on Friday, and the lodge to be picked up on Saturday
or Sunday, for the train ride Sunday. Realistically, we can't make the Friday
train, so Sunday is the end game for me. I can't be too vocal about it, as I
don't want to annoy everyone, although I think today’s events will make people
anxious to get home as well.
Warming up by the fire - Shane & Buck dumped in the rapid in the background. |
Paddling in the rain. |
We'll cross that bridge tomorrow, and
hopefully it won't be a miserable one. Another day of rain could really take its toll. If it was flat water, we could just paddle out quickly, rain or not, but the rapids take a long time to scout and, if necessary, portage.
Let's hope for drier weather in the morning.
....
Day Six:
I am beginning to have “rapid fatigue”.
At least I'm drier tonight.
After falling asleep last night after
reading only a few pages of my book, with Chet crooning in my ears next, the
day got off to a grand start by being silent. It was a relief to wake up
knowing it wasn't raining. When I awoke, Shane was reading. Falling asleep
early left us up early. We hung out for a bit, wondering when Buck and Tim
would show up. Eventually, recognizing that our stuff wouldn't dry where we
were, we got up and broke camp. We carried stuff out to the rocks, spread it
out as best we could, and waited.
Drying out by the morning fire after a wet night. |
Given the amount of portaging, we were constantly repacking the boats. We got quite efficient at it. Here we are packing the boats at the beginning of day six. |
Shane across the water, ready to line gear. |
Fishing at the bottom of the rapid. |
Campsite # 6 - shortly after riding the big wave train. |
A delicious - albeit highly processed - meal. |
In fact, it is amazing how normalized
this life becomes after a while – doing the same little tasks, over and over
and over … and over.